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PROJECT PI
photographing Iceland by bike

Back in 2014, Aura and I spent 6 weeks pedalling in Iceland. I had just quit my office job and needed a longer trip as a way to leave behind a stage in my life and begin another. It was also a good reason to get to know each other better. What I didn’t anticipate at the time was how Iceland and this experience would shape my career and my future. We ended up marrying and I continued to go north each year organizing photo tours and making photography.

That evening, about 3 days before our trip ended, we had the Reynisfjara beach at Vík í Mýrdal for ourselves. It was one of the easier images with the both of us to make, as I usually had to leave the tripod and camera quite far behind, pedal into the scene, then go back to retrieve and pack the whole setup.

That evening, about 3 days before our trip ended, we had the Reynisfjara beach at Vík í Mýrdal for ourselves. It was one of the easier images with the both of us to make, as I usually had to leave the tripod and camera quite far behind, pedal into the scene, then go back to retrieve and pack the whole setup.

Snæfellsnes and the furious wind

Our journey began from the airport. We made a one day stop to the capital city of Reykjavík for supplies and to fix the bent disk brake of my front wheel. We then headed north-west to the Snæfellsnes peninsula. We didn’t make a detailed plan or setup any specific goals, we just wanted to have fun and get to know the Icelandic landscape and its people. We were greeted with good weather.

Logistics and gear for a 6 weeks trip to Iceland are not cheap. We had some savings and some lucky sponsorship from a bunch of lovely people. The flags were kindly given to us by WWF-Romania as a way to promote their work.

Logistics and gear for a 6 weeks trip to Iceland are not cheap. We had some savings and some lucky sponsorship from a bunch of lovely people. The flags were kindly given to us by WWF-Romania as a way to promote their work.

Besides the food bought from the supermarket and the occasional restaurant meals, we had a big chunk of ‘slănină’ (a sort of organic farm pork grease) with us. Something we don’t usually eat, but given the daily effort, it ultimately was a stellar idea. And it lasted us until the final week of the trip.

Besides the food bought from the supermarket and the occasional restaurant meals, we had a big chunk of ‘slănină’ (a sort of organic farm pork grease) with us. Something we don’t usually eat, but given the daily effort, it ultimately was a stellar idea. And it lasted us until the final week of the trip.

We didn’t use any electronic devices (we didn’t own smart phones at the time) to get around or to calculate distances. An old school paper map wrapped in a plastic cover was more than enough. Icelandic maps are some of the best I’ve come across.

We didn’t use any electronic devices (we didn’t own smart phones at the time) to get around or to calculate distances. An old school paper map wrapped in a plastic cover was more than enough. Icelandic maps are some of the best I’ve come across.

We’ve read about Iceland’s inclement weather and prepared accordingly. Still, there were situations where we were taken aback. Snæfellsnes peninsula is famous for being windy. The crosswinds – katabatic in nature, coming down the slopes of the near-by mountains – we encountered on its south side were strong enough that pedalling proved impossible from one point onwards. One day, we had to push the bikes for 20km before giving up. We stopped a bus that took us on the other side of the peninsula, where everything was calm and quiet.

The 3 person tent was a good choice, being spacious enough for us and all the gear. Pretty stable too. This was probably one of the best camping spots of the trip. We were by the beach, sheltered from the wind and with beautiful views of the Snæfellsjökull glacier.

The 3 person tent was a good choice, being spacious enough for us and all the gear. Pretty stable too. This was probably one of the best camping spots of the trip. We were by the beach, sheltered from the wind and with beautiful views of the Snæfellsjökull glacier.

Temperatures in August average between 8°C and 13°C. Stripping is only done ocasionally and for very short periods of time. One particular reason to do it, as you’ll see later on, are the thermal pools.

Temperatures in August average between 8°C and 13°C. Stripping is only done ocasionally and for very short periods of time. One particular reason to do it, as you’ll see later on, are the thermal pools.

The arctic terns breed in Iceland and they’re famously known for having one of the longest migrations in the animal world. They fly around 70.000km every year between the Arctic regions and their wintering grounds in the Antarctica. They’re also quite territorial.

The arctic terns breed in Iceland and they’re famously known for having one of the longest migrations in the animal world. They fly around 70.000km every year between the Arctic regions and their wintering grounds in the Antarctica. They’re also quite territorial.

Shortly after making this image, Aura took her first serious fall of the trip. Even though I found her in a ditch, there were no serious injuries, just a good scare. The first out of several very lucky falls.

Shortly after making this image, Aura took her first serious fall of the trip. Even though I found her in a ditch, there were no serious injuries, just a good scare. The first out of several very lucky falls.

If I wasn’t too tired, I would go out at dawn and dusk to make some images for myself. Nobody was around and my life’s wish would come true – to be left alone.

If I wasn’t too tired, I would go out at dawn and dusk to make some images for myself. Nobody was around and my life’s wish would come true – to be left alone.

Climbing Vestfirðir

The second leg of the trip was dedicated to the West Fjords. Rugged like all of Iceland, but mountainous and secluded, these places left a strong impression on us. We had some of the most memorable days here, with hard climbs in the rain followed by relaxed times spent in the small and charming towns.

This is how a regular breakfast would look like when it was raining or it was too windy and cold to stay outside. I have to mention the ‘exceptional’ breakfasts too. After days of eating sparsely, we would stop at a fancy hotel (no sleeping there, don’t worry) and indulge on literally everything they served for breakfast. Every hotel stop was like a birthday party.

This is how a regular breakfast would look like when it was raining or it was too windy and cold to stay outside. I have to mention the ‘exceptional’ breakfasts too. After days of eating sparsely, we would stop at a fancy hotel (no sleeping there, don’t worry) and indulge on literally everything they served for breakfast. Every hotel stop was like a birthday party.

Many roads in Iceland are still gravel, with the government directing funds to other priorities for years. Even the famous Route 1 has only been paved completely in 2019, 45 years after its creation. Here, we were on our way to Látrabjarg promontory when Aura’s shifter broke. The famous bird cliff is still on the list.

Many roads in Iceland are still gravel, with the government directing funds to other priorities for years. Even the famous Route 1 has only been paved completely in 2019, 45 years after its creation. Here, we were on our way to Látrabjarg promontory when Aura’s shifter broke. The famous bird cliff is still on the list.

Mountain passes like this one are often closed during winter because of the heavy snowfalls. It can take days until they’re passable again.

Mountain passes like this one are often closed during winter because of the heavy snowfalls. It can take days until they’re passable again.

In 1995, two major avalanches struck the towns of Súðavík and Flateyri, both located in the Westfjords. 34 people were killed and many houses destroyed. These tragedies had a profound impact on Icelandic people and culture. Nói Albinói, an all-time favorite movie of mine, takes inspiration from the events of 1995.

In 1995, two major avalanches struck the towns of Súðavík and Flateyri, both located in the Westfjords. 34 people were killed and many houses destroyed. These tragedies had a profound impact on Icelandic people and culture. Nói Albinói, an all-time favorite movie of mine, takes inspiration from the events of 1995.

This was the day rain got the best of us. Even with the waterproof clothing (waterproof overshoes too), we were soaked to the skin. I got in an argument with Aura that ended in silent pedalling the whole day – she rightfully suggested we take a day off given the forecast. The road was almost entirely gravel making the climbs even harder. Cherry on top, halfway through the mountain pass, rain turned into snow.

This was the day rain got the best of us. Even with the waterproof clothing (waterproof overshoes too), we were soaked to the skin. I got in an argument with Aura that ended in silent pedalling the whole day – she rightfully suggested we take a day off given the forecast. The road was almost entirely gravel making the climbs even harder. Cherry on top, halfway through the mountain pass, rain turned into snow.

Most of the nights in Iceland were spent sleeping in a tent by the coast. Waves would waste their soothing sound on us as we fell asleep instantly after an all day pedalling. We used the comfort of campsites from time to time. Taking a hot shower is one of Aura’s most cherished memories.

First encounters in Norðurland

The north of Iceland is a place that keeps on giving. A very diverse landscape spanning from plateaus that I remember seeing in pictures made in Tibet to areas much like the surface of the moon that gave me an idea of how the interior of Iceland might look like.

The road seems to always go up in these parts of the world. At least for me and my 40 kg loaded bike. The photo equipment included two lenses, a tripod and a laptop. It adds up pretty quickly, but every piece of kit was used in telling the story. I learned to be more of a minimalist since then.

The road seems to always go up in these parts of the world. At least for me and my 40 kg loaded bike. The photo equipment included two lenses, a tripod and a laptop. It adds up pretty quickly, but every piece of kit was used in telling the story. I learned to be more of a minimalist since then.

During our time there, a fissure eruption took place near Bárðarbunga stratovolcano – at 2.009 m, it’s Iceland’s second highest peak. Because the eruption took place underneath the ice cap, there was a risk of flash floods in the area we were pedalling at the time. These kinds of events are rather standard for Iceland and, at the most, increase the number of visitors. We were kindly spared by mother nature.

During our time there, a fissure eruption took place near Bárðarbunga stratovolcano – at 2.009 m, it’s Iceland’s second highest peak. Because the eruption took place underneath the ice cap, there was a risk of flash floods in the area we were pedalling at the time. These kinds of events are rather standard for Iceland and, at the most, increase the number of visitors. We were kindly spared by mother nature.

Three weeks on the road and we already had a lot of amazing moments that we continue to remember and cherish to this day. And who would have expected that we will see the northern lights too? In August on our birthday – we’re born on the same day with a one year difference. Well, we did. And it was a wonderful first encounter at Lake Mývatn.

Three weeks on the road and we already had a lot of amazing moments that we continue to remember and cherish to this day. And who would have expected that we will see the northern lights too? In August on our birthday – we’re born on the same day with a one year difference. Well, we did. And it was a wonderful first encounter at Lake Mývatn.

Hot springs are part of Icelanders well-being, so we made sure to treat our muscles and joints with a proper dip.

Hot springs are part of Icelanders well-being, so we made sure to treat our muscles and joints with a proper dip.

Iceland is probably the best place in the world to understand our planet’s history, as it sits on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge separating the Eurasian and the North American tectonic plates. Hverfjall, pictured here, is the largest volcanic crater in Iceland.

Iceland is probably the best place in the world to understand our planet’s history, as it sits on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge separating the Eurasian and the North American tectonic plates. Hverfjall, pictured here, is the largest volcanic crater in Iceland.

Most of the nights in Iceland were spent sleeping in a tent by the coast. Waves would waste their soothing sound on us as we fell asleep instantly after an all day pedalling. We used the comfort of campsites from time to time. Taking a hot shower is one of Aura’s most cherished memories.